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Cotton ammonia stretch fabric has excellent performance, such as good deformation recovery, breathability, moisture permeability, etc., widely used in stretch underwear, swimwear, sportswear, bodybuilding clothing, is a popular variety in the field of clothing. However, cotton-ammonia stretch fabrics are generally mainly woven fabrics and weft-knitted fabrics, and warp-knitted fabrics are not common, not only because it is relatively difficult to process spun yarns on a warp-knitted machine, but also in terms of fabric finishing. Compared with the looseness of the woven fabric and the looseness of the weft knitted fabric, the stability of the warp knitted fabric is between the woven fabric and the weft knitted fabric, which is very suitable for some high-grade underwear fabrics. Therefore, the development of warp knitted cotton ammonia fabric has broad prospects. .
Difficulties in the production and processing of warp knitted cotton ammonia fabric
Raw material quality. In the case of cotton yarn, the yarn body of the cotton yarn is not smooth, the twist is large, and the hairiness is large. When the yarn guides the yarn on the warp knitting machine to guide the yarn to swing back and forth between the needles, the yarn is easy to be ground and entangled with the knitting device, and Will produce a large number of flying flowers, the braided device is blocked, resulting in frequent parking; the second is the yarn in the range of fineness that can be processed on the warp knitting machine, the strength of the yarn is not high enough, and due to the thick details of the cotton yarn and the presence of the neps, the yarn It is easy to break the head, which affects the quality of the cloth.
The yarn is broken. When the spandex is rubbed with the metal device during the weaving process, it will produce a large tension. Moreover, due to the oil stain on the surface of the silk when the spandex is produced, it is easy to adhere to the hairiness of the cotton yarn and the cotton yarn during weaving, so that the friction between the yarns increases. Jumping is easy to occur in weaving. In addition, the warp yarn generally has two tension peaks in each cycle of the warp knitting machine, which occurs in the mat yarn stage and the loop forming stage. If the sticking occurs, the spandex yarn is easily broken in the two stages.
Control of spandex content. The content of spandex in warp-knitted fabrics currently produced generally does not exceed 30%. The spandex content is the most influential factor on the elasticity of the fabric. The change in elasticity directly affects the comfort of the human body, such as whether there is pressure or not. In actual production, it is more difficult to control the content of spandex in the fabric. There are data indicating that the factors affecting the content fluctuation of spandex in the fabric are the stretch ratio of the spandex filament, the fineness conversion, the fineness deviation, and the amount of warp. Unstable and so on.
Post-processing is difficult. The spandex is not resistant to high temperature and strong alkali. The ester group of the polyester spandex is easily hydrolyzed and broken. In the process of finishing the textile, if the process is improperly used, the spandex will be damaged, especially the elasticity and softness of the spandex will be seriously lost. At the same time, after the warp-knitted fabric is dyed and finished, due to the different coil density of different parts of the same piece of cloth (cloth edge and cloth center), the product has a grammage difference, and the dyed cloth has color difference, and the dye of the printed cloth does not penetrate. First, this is a problem to be solved in production.
The key to solving problems in production
The first is to improve the quality of raw materials, using new raw materials, including improving the strength and strip of cotton yarn, reducing hairiness. With the development of the chemical fiber industry, some new types of spandex have emerged, such as spandex with high temperature resistance, hydrolysis resistance, easy dyeing, chlorine resistance, and light aging resistance. The use of new spandex will improve the problems in the finishing process. In addition, it is also possible to pre-treat the corresponding raw materials, such as waxing or steaming cotton yarn to improve the strength and reduce hairiness; second, to improve the technical level of weaving preparation, mainly refers to warping quality control (cotton yarn, spandex); Third, in the weaving process, it is necessary to select a reasonable organization and machine speed through experiments; the fourth is to improve the dyeing method, and can refer to the dyeing method of weft-knitted cotton ammonia fabric and the dyeing method of woven cotton ammonia fabric to improve the dyeing process level. Solve the problem that the spandex elasticity, softness and other properties change during dyeing.
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