One. Foreword
China's clothing dyeing and finishing began in the late 1970s. It was originally denim stonewashing, rinsing and snow washing. In the 1980s, silk clothing sand washing, cotton and T/C clothing washing (shrinking), soft washing , sand washing. And a small amount of clothing dyeing, printing and tie dyeing. In the 1990s, enzyme treatment technology, used for denim washing, cotton clothing super soft wash, and knit sweater polishing, the treatment effect is obvious, better than fabric treatment Many. In recent years, permanent pressing resin is used for garment impregnation treatment. The dimensional and shape stability is greatly improved compared with the previous fabric treatment methods. It has the reputation of [morphological memory finishing]. It has only been twenty years. China's clothing dyeing and finishing technology has opened a new page for the modernization of new technologies to improve clothing quality and added value.
However, technically speaking, the 'clothing dyeing and finishing' business is still the nature of the workshop; "the practice makes perfect, the masters and the disciples pass by," and some joint ventures, the borrowing technicians rarely let go in production. This professional book borrows less magazines and is relatively closed. However, in recent years, this industry has developed along with the development of the garment industry. Many medium and high-end garments cannot be separated from the dyeing and finishing of garments. Strengthening the exchange of clothing dyeing and finishing technology is an important part of improving the level of garment processing.
The author has worked in clothing washing for many years. As far as what I have done, I know, write this article, and use it to exchange ideas.
Now decontaminating, washing (washing, soft, sand washing, enzymatic washing), dyeing (tie dyeing, ball dyeing, segmentation dyeing), finishing (polishing, anti-felting, shape memory), denim washing (stone washing) , rinsing, washing) process and production points are introduced as follows;
two. Clothing washing
(1) Decontamination method before washing
Before treatment; stains on clothing (caused during production), should be carefully checked and washed;
1. Mildew; after wetting with water, add less potassium permanganate, then wash with manganese dioxide to remove manganese dioxide.
2. Rust spots: After wetting with water, add less oxalic acid to wash, then wash and neutralize.
3. Oil pollution; recommended use, Shanghai Shenjiang Daily Chemical Detergent Factory's labor insurance special Lulu brand special hand sanitizer.
4. Paint spot: soften with ether, turpentine mixture (1:1), wash with gasoline, and finally wash off the residue with detergent warm water.
(two) general washing
1. Shrink water
When the fabric shrinkage rate exceeds the standard, shrink a piece of cloth before the garment, measure the warp and weft shrinkage rate, convert to the garment size, and then cut the ratio. After the sample is taken, the water is washed and tested to make the shrinkage rate of the garment meet the standard. These garments must be washed after being dressed. And the size after shrinking must be consistent with the test sample. This requires that [shrinking water] also have a uniform process.
Washing and shrinking process;
Place the garment in a 40 °C pool of warm water, soak for half an hour (press the pressure from the stick from time to time to make it all wet), take out the dehydration, and dry.
Shrinkage requirements;
After washing, the shrinkage rate of the garment dropped to 3%.
2. Wash soft
Most children's wear is soft, but the requirements are not high. At the customer's request, add softener when shampooing.
Place the garment in a warm water at 40 ° C, add 2 g / liter of softener in the pool, soak for half an hour (from time to time with a stick to press a pressure, so that all wet), dehydration, drying.
Wash softness requirements;
After washing, the shrinkage rate of the garment dropped to 3%. The hand feels slightly softer.
3. Environmentally friendly clothing
Exporting products from certain countries requires no formaldehyde. Due to the wide variety of garment factories, some fabrics with formaldehyde in the garment workshop emit formaldehyde in the space, so that the original formaldehyde-free clothes absorb a small amount of formaldehyde. If you do not pay attention, it is easy to cause breach of contract (exceeds the standard, claim).
Washing process
40-50 ° C soaping (washing powder 1 g / liter, pure 硷 2 g / liter), washed, dehydrated, dried.
Washing requirements;
No odor on the cloth, no formaldehyde.
(3) Cotton and T/C clothing sand washing
1. Cotton garment sand washing quality requirements
Pants, coats and breads made of cotton variegated khaki, which require soft feel and smoothness after sand washing, good anti-shrinkage and anti-wrinkle properties, subtle and conservative color, and decorative whitening effect on the corners. Look; airflow yarn, yarn card, slightly softer fabric softness can be done very well. Coarse yarn can also be done well. High-knit yarn and tight fabrics are best fabric first, after making clothes Sanding again to reflect the characteristics of sand washing products.
Sand washing; sand powder is used as the abrasive in the bath. According to reports, the industrial washing machine with the hole in the eye is effective with sand powder, and the softness is not very satisfactory. The better treatment method is the washing and fading. Soft method, stone wash plus enzymatic method, stone wash aggravation soft method.
T/C clothing is the same as pure cotton, but it is more suitable for stone washing and enzymatic method.
2. Sand washing process formula
(1) Washing method (suitable for vulcanized bread)
Process and conditions;
Sand washing (room temperature 20-30 minutes), water washing, soft washing (room temperature 20 minutes), dehydration, drying, cold grinding (30-50 minutes)
formula:
Sand washing
Pure ç¡· 3 g / liter
Net lotion 209 0.15 g / liter
D3 softener 2 g / liter
a little defoamer
Soft wash
D3 2.5%
OC 1.5%
(2) Stone washing and enzymatic method (T/C clothing is also applicable to this method)
Process and conditions;
1 Pumice and enzyme added together with water (50 ° C for 30 minutes, cloth to stone ratio of 1:1), remove the clothing, rinse the stone chips (working fluid can be added after a little supplement), soaping (60 ° C 20 minutes to kill enzymes) ), washed, soft washed (30-40 ° C, 20 minutes), dehydrated, dried, cold ground (30-50 minutes).
2 first enzyme wash (50 ° C, 30-45 minutes), remove the garment, put it in the stone mill, stone wash for 20 minutes (stone ratio 1:2), flushing, soaping (60 ° C for 20 minutes), Washed, soft washed, dehydrated, dried
formula;
Enzyme washing;
Cellulase 1% (owf)
Adjust pH (acid enzyme 4-5, neutral enzyme 6-7)
Soft wash
General softener 2%
(3) Stone grinding soft method
Process and conditions;
Stone mill (room temperature 20 minutes), rinse, soap (60 ° C for 20 minutes), soft wash (30-40 ° C, 10 minutes), dehydration, drying, cold grinding (30-50 minutes).
formula;
Stone wash; stone ratio 1:3
Soft wash; softener D3 2.5% OC 1.5%
3. Cotton and T/C clothing sand washing operation note
1 Bread clothing mostly uses polyester staple fiber sprayed cotton (vinyl acetate-acrylate-hydroxymethyl propylene amine terpolymer copolymer) for the cotton wool, the glass transition temperature of the adhesive is 28- 33 ° C, and resistant to pickling,
Dishwashing and soaping are poor. It is very easy to disperse in garment sand washing, so a gentle low temperature process must be used.
2The paint is printed with brooch, marked clothing, not resistant to temperature and not wearable, and can also be used in low temperature sand washing process. The softness of low temperature process, poor washability, hardening after washing. The quality of sand washing is high. The product requires high-quality paint printing, and adopts the enzyme washing and stone washing process at 40 ° C low temperature soap.
3 When the low temperature process is soft and washable, the soft dosage is large, the dissolution is insufficient, and there are many stains after dehydration, but it is absorbed while being dissolved, which has no effect on the appearance quality.
4 cold grinding is very important for sand washing style, if necessary, should extend the time.
5 light color garment sand washing, a small amount of deep color pumice with iron, cobalt, copper and other impurities, put a bar on the fabric, it is difficult to wash (must be handcuffed)
(4) Silk clothing sand washing
1. Silk clothing and sand washing quality requirements
Most of the sand-washed silk garments are variegated, printed double-wrinkled shirts, and wrinkled satin-coated coats. Sand washing requires silk to be partially broken, silk fibrils exposed, soft and smooth fabric, anti-shrinkage and wrinkle resistance, good drape, silk surface It seems to have a mist, a good writing effect, and a slight whitening effect on the double-thread sewing.
Sand washing treatment requires color retention (color vividness and color fastness) to prevent weak hand feeling, hair draping and adhesive lining off, discrete.
2. Sand washing process formula
(1) Process
Bath ratio; 1:40-50 equipment; cage industrial washing machine, centrifugal dewatering machine, cage dryer.
Sand wash (room temperature, 10-15 minutes), wash with water (10 minutes), soft wash (30 ° C, 10 minutes), dehydration (do not dry too much, take off a little bit, do not dry, form dry and wet) , drying, cold grinding (in the cage dryer, blowing cold wind for 40-60 minutes).
(2) Formula
1 sand wash
Pure ç¡· 3-4 g / liter
Detergent 209 0.05 g / l
Softener D3 0.2 g / liter
2 soft wash (bath ratio can be reduced to 1:30)
Softener Sapamine OC 4 g / l
Acetic acid adjusted to pH 6-7
3. Operational attention
1 Stretch out the clothes before washing, cut off the long thread, and after the underwater material is in the pot, throw the clothes one by one into the pot to avoid stacking together, the bubbles will not come out inside, and the flipping will be uneven.
2 sanding with a general softener, can avoid dead folds, produce water lines (scratch streaks).
3 treatment with high concentration (pure ç¡·), low temperature, short time. Can effectively preserve color and prevent over-treatment.
4 softener with cationic Sapamine OC best effect, use silicone softener with caution to prevent hair cloak.
5 The quality of the adhesive lining is not good. It is easy to peel off during sand washing. Before the batch processing, the sample should be sampled. If it happens, please consult the garment factory in time.
6 bath ratio is too small or too large, will produce water lines, should be practiced to find the best choice.
three. Clothing dyeing
Clothing dyeing characteristics; garment dyeing; small batch size, short delivery time, unique style, suitable for all kinds of natural fibers. There are conventional dyeing, tie dyeing, hanging dyeing, ball dyeing. Dyes can be directly, acid (silk), paint, The newer dyeing process of cotton and its blended fabrics has cationic denatured dyed coatings, followed by enzymatic washing, which has the effect of denim (color and wash), while the fabric specifications of the fabric can be varied, and the warp dyeing can be eliminated. And a lot less.
(1) tie dyeing
1. About tie dyeing
Tie-dye is an ancient folk dyeing technique. Asia, Africa, Europe and the United States all have their own products and styles. China started in the Qin and Han Dynasties. The modern practice is to draw patterns on fabrics and garments, and then use them to tie them. Knot, shackle, tie, and clip means conceal the parts that do not need to be dyed, and then dye them with direct dyes in industrial washing machines. After dyeing, some parts can be disassembled and dyed, so that more color products can be dyed. Tie-dye design and ligation Skills can be read in the book "Tie-dye technique" (3).
2. Dyeing process
It is usually made of dyed semi-finished products (white silk, human cotton silk, mercerized bleached cotton flat cloth, silk, etc.), and then dyed, used for weak silk dyes, cotton and cotton. Direct dye.
1. Dyeing process and conditions;
Dyeing (bath ratio 1:40-60, temperature 70-80 ° C, time 20-30 minutes), warm water wash (30-40 ° C), cold water wash, fixation (fixing agent Y1 g / l, bath ratio 1: 40, temperature about 45 ° C for 20-30 minutes), remove, disassemble, cold water wash, then soak in the fixing solution, soap at 40 ° C for 20 minutes (add whitening agent whitening when needed), wash, soft Wash, dehydrate, and dry.
2. Formulation (for cotton, cotton)
A. dyeing;
Direct dye X
Pure ç¡· 0.5-1 g / liter
TX-10 penetrant 0.5g / liter
Salt 10-20 g / liter
B. Fixing color;
Fixing agent Y 1 g / liter
Acetic acid adjusts the working fluid pH to 5-6
3. Operating points
Add water to the pot, add pure sputum, TX-10, and warm up to about 80 °C, put the cloth into the clothes, wash for 10 minutes, then add the dyed liquid to prevent dyeing.
2 Dyeing time is related to the translucent property. When the time is too long, the color layer effect is not good, it is too short to be deeply dyed, and the salt is added, the time is short, and the effect is good.
3 Need to stir when fixing, so that the fixing agent can fully penetrate into the dye, but it is not easy to react at the place where it is tied. Therefore, it is better to soak in the fixing liquid after disassembling (no need to flip at this time).
4 defective products should be repaired and stripped with pure 硷 60 ° C to destroy the fixing agent cross-linking, and then treated with insurance powder.
(two) hanging dye
The garments are hung up and arranged on the reciprocating frame. The dyeing liquid with different liquid level is injected into the dyeing tank, first low and then high, and the section is gradually increased. The dyeing liquid is first concentrated and then light, so that the dyed step can be dyed. Effect. Hang dyeing, can be carried out on the hank dyeing machine.
1. Process and conditions (cotton shirt)
Straighten the neckline, use a plastic rope to hang the collar, hang it on the hank dyeing reciprocating frame, add water to the dyeing tank, heat up to 90 °C, apply dye, and hang the reciprocating rack on the dyeing tank to check whether the clothes have been immersed in the liquid. In the middle, drive for 30-40 minutes. Lift the reciprocating frame, and let the drip on the cloth drip, and then return the reciprocating frame to the dyeing tank where the dye concentration and liquid level have been adjusted, and dye twice. So much. Once, the last time the collar plastic rope is untied, in the lightest color dye solution,
Use hand to shake, make the color even. Wash off some of the darker floating color, soak in the fixing agent working solution of about 40 °C, wash for more than half an hour, eat softener (2% ), dehydration, drying.
2. Formula
A. Head dyeing
Direct dye X
Pure ç¡· 1 g / liter
Penetrant TX-10 2-4 g / liter
Salt 20-40 grams
B. Difection
Release a certain amount of headstock, make up the pure sputum, and make up the water to the required temperature. Three dyes, four dyes are brewed as usual.
3. Operating points
A. When the hanger is on the trough, the clothes tend to float on the liquid surface, and it is difficult to sink. In addition to adding penetrant in the dye solution, the speed of the reciprocating frame should be slowed down to prevent confusion or color spots.
B. Finally, when the collar is hand-dyed, after loosening the collar, first wet the collar with warm water containing TX-10 (it is a multi-layered seam, it is not easy to dye even if it is not wetted).
C. After dyeing the last process, it should be immersed in the fixing agent working fluid immediately to prevent coloring and bleeding.
D. Choose a softener that is compatible with the fixing agent.
(3) Ball dyeing
Short-sleeved shirts or knitted T-shirts can be arbitrarily pinched into a group and stuffed in a plastic net bag. It can be dyed with complex layers and varied scenery. The gripping technique is combined with a variety of dyes (multiple dyes with different dyeing rates) Color dyes are used in combination, and the effect is especially refined.
A. Preparation before dyeing
Flatten the clothes to be dyed, straight to the 30%, hands up from the bottom, gradually ridge, and then knead into a ball, into a small plastic mesh bag, tightened into a spherical shape, tied. In the industrial washing machine, Dye with direct dye.
B. Dyeing process
Usually used in the first half of the dyeing (white silk, cotton silk, silk bleached cotton fine flat cloth, woven clothing such as silk and cotton or cotton t-shirt), tied and dyed, the real silk is weak Acid dyes, direct dyes for cotton and cotton.
1. Dyeing process and conditions;
Dyeing (bath ratio 1:40-60, temperature 70-80 ° C, time 30-45 minutes), warm water wash (30-40 ° C), cold water wash, fixation (fixing agent Y1 g / liter, bath ratio 1: 40, temperature about 45 ° C for 20-30 minutes), remove, disassemble, cold water wash, then soak in the fixing solution, soap at 40 ° C for 20 minutes (add whitening agent whitening when needed), wash, soft Wash, dehydrate, and dry.
2. Formulation (for cotton, cotton)
A. dyeing;
Direct dye X
Pure ç¡· 0.5-1 g / liter
TX-10 penetrant 0.5g / liter
Salt 10-20 g / liter
B. Fixing color;
Fixing agent Y 1 g / liter
Acetic acid adjusts the working fluid pH to 5-6
3. Operating points
Add water to the pot, add pure sputum, TX-10, and warm up to about 80 °C. Put the "ball" into it and wash it for 10 minutes before adding the dye solution to prevent the color point.
2 Dyeing time is related to the translucent property. When the time is too long, the color layer effect is not good, it is too short to be deeply dyed, and the salt is added, the time is short, and the effect is good.
3 Need to stir when fixing, so that the fixing agent can fully penetrate into the dye, but the depth of the ball is not easy to react well, so it is better to soak in the fixing liquid after disassembling (no need to flip at this time).
4 defective products should be repaired and stripped with pure 硷 60 ° C to destroy the fixing agent cross-linking, and then treated with insurance powder.
(4) Paint dyeing
Paint dyeing used to use the binder method, the hand feel is hard, not suitable for clothing dyeing. Cationic denaturation can make the cellulose fiber have good adsorption and dyeing effect on the coating lake. The medium and light color can be helped without the help of adhesive. It meets the requirements of general color fastness. When dyeing dark colors, it needs adhesive reinforcement and feels hard.
It is not only soft to the touch, but also has the effect of washing, whitening, sand washing and stone grinding. It is accepted by the market. The technology introduced in this paper is suitable for imitation denim, imitation sand washing and knitting. 4. It is used for imitation sand washing and other cotton and cotton blended products.
1. Process, formulation and conditions
Put the clothes into the pot, wash at room temperature for 10 minutes, add the modified modifier T (20-50 g / liter) in portions, add the mixture, add 2 g / liter of pure sputum, gradually warm to 65 ° C for 20 minutes. Wash to neutral, add paint (lake) and a small amount of acetic acid (make the working solution pH 5-6), add binder, heat to 80-85 ° C for 20 minutes, wash with cold water, enzyme wash (acid enzyme pH 4-5, 50 ° C 30-40 minutes), soaping 40 ° C for 10 minutes), soft wash, dehydration, drying.
2. Operating points
1 cationic modifier T, has a good affinity for cellulose fibers, in order to make the fabric uniformity, the modifier should be slowly added.
2 Pure bismuth at high temperature, the modifier is chemically bonded to the fiber, to make the reaction sufficient, the temperature and time of this reaction should be mastered.
3 When the paint is dyed, the medium-light color can be added without binder. Without the cellulase treatment, the soap can be washed with a low temperature alone to obtain a certain effect of washing and whitening. (You can first proof and seek customer opinions. )
4 (desiccation) to use the paint for dyeing, generally smaller than the particles used for printing, uniform color, good color fastness.
four. sort out
(1) Knitwear polishing treatment
High-knit cotton knit T-shirts, which are made of combed yarn, double-filament and double-burning. The fabric finish and the product style have the same quality. The treatment of the sweater with cellulase can also significantly improve the surface luminosity. Makes the hand soft.
Knitted shirt enzyme treatment process is the same as denim treatment, but when purchasing cellulase, cellulase with good polishing effect should be specified. Process and formula
The sweater is put into the industrial washing machine, enzyme washing (1-2% enzyme, acid enzyme pH 4-5, neutral enzyme pH 6-7, all treated at 50 ° C for 40-60 minutes), water washing, soaping (60 ° C 10 minutes), change the water, soft wash (30-40 ° C), dehydration and drying.
(2) Clothing form memory finishing
Currently popular on the market is pure cotton trousers finishing products, the trousers have good retention, no shackles, no deformation, very soft and comfortable, and the performance is far above the polyester card. The market price is in the middle and high. Column.
In the mid-1990s, the market advocated formaldehyde-free finishing, but due to the strength index of raw cotton, it could not reach the level of new cotton in the United States. After the treatment of polycarboxylate finishing agent, it was not only very weak, but also had no formaldehyde finishing agent. , especially the current guarantee indicators for ultra-low formaldehyde finishing agents,
It has reached the requirements of setting indicators for formaldehyde in Western Europe [environmental textiles]. Therefore, ultra-low formaldehyde finishing is the mainstream of current production.
The materials described in this document can be used for cotton trousers, cotton knit T-shirts, cotton and linen blended knit T-shirts, and cotton shirts. The concentration of the working fluid can be appropriately reduced when used for T/C fabrics. The purpose is mainly to improve dimensional stability and flatness, and can achieve the quality requirements of [three-time cage shrinkage, drying, shrinkage rate of 3% or less].
1. Process and conditions
Equipped with the finishing work liquid, according to the processing capacity of the garment baking machine, the clothing is immersed in the working liquid according to the number, soaked for ten minutes, taken out for dehydration (recycling the dewatered working fluid), drying, using steam The iron is hot (flat flat, smashed and burned), hung on the baking rack, and after the garment baking machine reaches the predetermined temperature, it is baked at 145 ° C for 4 minutes or 150 ° C, three and a half minutes).
2. Finishing liquid formula
PP554 10% (ultra-low formaldehyde finishing agent, Qingdao rotta product)
591 2% (catalyst, rotta product)
243 5% (polyethylene softener, rotta product)
271 2% (silicone softener, rotta product)
JFC 0.2%
Adjust pH4-5
3. Operating points
(1) 50 liters each time, 50 liters when not enough, mixed with the remaining working fluid.
(2) When immersing the finishing liquid, it should be turned evenly and all thoroughly.
(3) Do not dry too much when dehydrating, keep the liquid rate up to 70% up and down, (specifically master the method; take off ten pieces each time, start listening to the sound, turn off the brakes at the beginning of the speed increase, so you can protect 70%).
(4) When drying, it should be completely dry. When ironing, it should be burned by steaming. It is not good to prevent the baking in the dry place, which affects the local finishing effect.
(5) If formaldehyde exceeds the standard (the merchant guarantees less than 75ppm), the reason can be found from the catalyst dosage and baking temperature. In addition, the finished product can be once soaped (add a small amount of hydrogen peroxide) to achieve the standard.
4. Finished product index
(1) Strong retention rate of 60% or more.
(2) permanent pressing; flat stiffness and crease stability are above 3.5.
(3) blanket (sweater) anti-felting treatment
The hotel uses blankets and often needs to be changed. Dry cleaning does not go to ash (dust), water washing should shrink, there is a disinfection requirement. to
This has not been solved. The blanket is treated with sodium dichlorotrisocyanate (DCCNa) to obtain sterilization and anti-felting effect. When washing again, a water washing (soaping) process can be used.
Anti-felting treatment process formula;
DCCNa 3.3% (owf)
Adjust pH to 5 with phosphoric acid
JFC 0. 2 g / liter
Bath ratio: 1:20 temperature 15-20 ° C, soak for 20 minutes, take out the water in the rotating industrial washing machine and neutralize (add less pure sputum), remove chlorine (hydrogen peroxide, less stabilizer, 40 ° C, 20 minutes), washed, softened, baked, dehydrated, shaped and dried.
Post-processing indicator requirements;
Shrinkage rate ± 1%, good hand feeling, no obvious color change or fading.
Precautions;
1 chlorinating agent (DCCNa) should be used accurately and too little; shrinking water is large. Too much; there is a negative shrinkage (larger than the original size, but the feel is relaxed, the tissue is draped).
2 temperature and time should be mastered, the temperature is high, the color of the blanket should be yellow, and the processing time should be extended when the temperature is low.
3 hydrogen peroxide treatment, one is dechlorination, the second is bleaching, the temperature is not high, the time can be long.
4 blankets are generally covered with red silk soft satin, not resistant to chlorine bleaching, so the dry cleaning should be removed before treatment (to prevent shrinkage), and then sewed after treatment.
5 new sweaters can also be treated with this anti-felting process. Dirty, can be washed a little before cleaning, clean and preserve.
Five. Denim wash
(1) Organizational specifications of traditional and color denim (1)
Denim is a warp yarn dyed with pure cotton indigo and a natural weft yarn. It is made of three right-handed right twill weaves. It can be divided into light, medium and heavy three types of light fabrics weighing 200-340 g/m2 ( 6-10 ounces /
Square yard), medium-weight cloth weight 340-450 g / square meter (10-13 ounces / square yard) heavy cloth weight more than 450 grams, yarn thickness; heavy 7 × 6, medium 10 × 10, light 12 × 12 (British branch Above. The width of the cloth is mostly at 114-
152 cm. In addition to the above traditional products, there are also denim fabrics;
1. Color denim fabrics with different material structures;
(1) Elastic denim woven from a small-strand spandex yarn (about 3-4% of the yarn weight) as a core-elastic warp or weft of warp yarn.
(2) Snowflake denim with a low proportion of polyester and cotton blended as a warp yarn, which produces a whitening effect after dyeing.
(3) High-grade denim woven with cotton and cotton and cotton-wool blended yarn.
(4) Denim fabrics made of medium and long fibers (T/R).
2. Floral denim fabrics made by different processing techniques
(1) Bark 绉 denim fabric made of sorghum weft
(2) When the warp yarn is dyed, the dyed denim of the eucalyptus is dyed with a dye such as vulcanized or Haichanglan.
(3) Striped denim with colored warp yarns embedded in the warp of blue
(4) Hang white or print on the denim denim.
(2) Features of denim (1)
1. Pure cotton coarse-knit twill, breathable, breathable and comfortable to wear.
2. The texture is thick, the texture is clear and properly treated, it can prevent wrinkles, shrinkage and deformation.
3. Cymbidium is a kind of coordinated color with various color tops, suitable for all seasons.
4. Cymbidium is a non-solid color, the more it washes, the lighter it is, the lighter it is.
5. The diagonal pull processing of denim;
The interaction between the yarn twist and the fabric structure (such as the diagonal direction of the twill fabric) causes the skewing stress inside the fabric, also known as the potential weft stress. This skew stress exists in various fabrics, which is absolutely large. Some varieties have less potential stress, so the performance of the fabric is not obvious, and the denim is thick and twill.
The above-mentioned latitudinal skew stress is quite large. Therefore, the outer shape of the fabric is very unstable, and it is very prominent after being washed and deformed after washing. This potential weft yarn skew stress may cause deformation of the garment after washing the garment (for example, the pants are twisted). ).
The slanting finishing can eliminate the stress and ensure the stability of the garment size. The slanting is carried out on the squeezing and drying machine equipped with the weft aligner. According to the inclination angle of the weft yarn, the inclination of the weft yarn is required to be 3 after the general latitude denim is passed through the weft. Between °~4°30',
The allowable tolerance for the entire weft is ±2%. The inclination of the right twill is positive and the left twill is negative.
(3) Denim wash (2)
Indigo-dyed denim, the surface of the cloth is dark cyan, and the back is the original white yarn. According to the customer's request, the color of the different colors, different shades, different watermarks, and different softness and finish are available. It changes a lot, but the basic treatment method is stone grinding, chlorine bleaching (after chlorine bleaching, dechlorination with baking soda or hydrogen peroxide, the color is not the same, the former with green head, the latter is Baolan). Potassium permanganate bleaching (after bleaching, the color is washed with grass, the color is not washed), and the pumice is soaked with potassium permanganate (plus phosphoric acid).
Drying (snow washing), enzyme washing and other processes in a short time under the condition of less stone cloth.
1. Process and conditions
(1) ordinary stone washing;
Enzymatic desizing, (with pumice) stone grinding, out of the tank water (transparent stone chips), soaping whitening, soft wash, dehydration and drying.
(2) stone grinding and rinsing;
Enzyme desizing, (plus stone) stone grinding, out of the tank water (transparent stone chips), sodium hypochlorite rinse, baking soda dechlorination, water washing, soaping whitening, soft wash, dehydration and drying.
(3) rinsing; enzyme desizing, adding sodium hypochlorite rinse, baking soda dechlorination, water washing, soaping whitening, soft washing, dehydration drying.
(4) Snow washing; enzyme desizing, water eluting water, shaking open, flattening, filling the clothes with dry pumice impregnated with potassium permanganate in a stone mill, grinding the pan, washing, pickling, neutralizing, soap Wash whitening, soft wash, dehydrated and dried.
(5) Enzyme washing; enzyme desizing, enzyme washing, water washing, soaping (killing enzyme) whitening, soft washing, dehydration drying.
2. Equipment
Drum type stone grinding washing machine (large, rotating drum without holes), cage industrial washing machine. Centrifugal dewatering machine, cage dryer.
3. Materials
Amylase: generally use BF-7658 amylase (conversion rate 1:50), the amount is 0.2% of the weight of the fabric. The treatment conditions are: the enzyme is hydrated well, added and stirred, and then immersed at 45 ° C for 20 minutes, stirring. 10
Add a small amount of softener after -20 minutes (to prevent dead folds from reducing the grinding), add pumice.
Pumice: Most of the pumice stone is volcanic rock of Changbai Mountain. It is light in weight and grayish white. It contains brown and black hard rock pumice. It should be smashed before use. The size of the block is 3-4 cm. The dosage is 1:1-3 according to Bubi Stone.
Sodium hypochlorite: general working fluid, using 30% or more of sodium hypochlorite aqueous solution 1%-4%, add a small amount of burning sputum, so that the working fluid pH is maintained at 12 up and down, processing conditions 60 ° C for about 20 minutes (time length according to color).
Baking soda: In the middle of the test, when the color is close to the standard, excessive baking soda should be added immediately to stop the bleaching reaction. The general dosage is about 0.2% of the working fluid.
Washing powder; after chemical treatment, it should be fully soaped to remove residue, improve the color purity, and the soaping condition is generally pure
硷 1 g / liter, washing powder 0.5 g / liter, 60 ° C for 20 minutes.
Brightener: The weft of denim is the original white yarn. In order to improve the vividness of the fabric, most of the whitening is whitened with VBL whitening agent (except for denim with yellow-green color head). The dosage is 0.5% (owf). After the whitening agent is dissolved, it is added to the soaping solution, and after stirring for 10 minutes, the water is discharged.
Softener: Cowboys can take D3, soft film and other cheap softeners. After dissolving, add to the pot and stir at 30-40 °C for 10 minutes.
Clock. The amount is 2-4% of the weight of the fabric.
Potassium permanganate: It is very strong in oxidative decolorization of indigo. In addition to being used as snow washing, it can also be used to correct the finished color.
4. Processing conditions
Cellulase: There are acidic enzymes and neutral enzymes in the use conditions, the acid enzyme price is slightly lower, the neutral enzyme is lightly dyed. The effect is used for different enzymes; decolorization, softness and polishing have different emphasis The activity rate of the enzyme is also different. When purchasing the enzyme treatment agent, it is necessary to select it in a targeted manner. The enzyme treatment temperature is mostly required to be above and below 50 ° C, the pH of the working solution; the acid enzyme 4-5, the neutral enzyme 6-7,
The time is related to the dosage. When the dosage is 1% of the weight of the fabric, the treatment time is about 45 minutes, and the dosage can be shortened.
After the treatment effect reaches the standard requirements, the enzyme should be killed (inactivated) so as not to remain on the cloth and continue to have a slow biochemical effect on the fiber. The enzyme treatment can be carried out using hydrazine (pH above 12) or high temperature (80 ° C). Above), generally used 60 ° C soaping, time more than 20 minutes.
5. Operating essentials;
(1) Preparation; before the garment is processed, the long thread head left during sewing should be cut off to avoid tangling of the garment in the washing, and unevenness occurs. The twisted flap, collar, trousers, cuffs should be flattened, and nylon climbing is prevented. Rolling.
(2) The loading per pot is about 40% of the capacity of the equipment. It is easy to produce the grinding water (water line), the efficiency is low, and the water line is too small.
(3) After the pumice is broken, first add water in the machine and turn it a few times. Grind the edge of the garden and remove the floating pumice. The sinking cannot be used.
(4) The weight ratio of clothing stone is generally 1:1. The stone grinding time is better than 20 minutes.
(5) After the stone is finished, the garments must be cleaned one by one, and the stone in the pockets should be washed away.
(6) Stone grinding and rinsing process, the most difficult to master the color standard, not only the amount of sodium hypochlorite should be mastered, drift to a certain level to diligent than the standard, when the color, should immediately add baking soda to stop the reaction.
(7) Before using VBL to add white, the hypochlorite should be washed first, otherwise it will be invalid.
(8) Desizing Zhao Jing, the softer the cloth body, the less the death fold, the lighter the grinding. The PD820 penetrant is added when desizing, which is good for desizing, and it also has a certain preventive effect on the white yarn returned to the orchid. Adding a softener (MS-1, D3, film) can also prevent the breakage and reduce the effect of grinding.
(9) Snow washing, first remove the garment from the pulp, shake off the clothes after dehydration, and stretch flat. Put a layer of clothes in the stone mill and add a layer of pumice containing potassium permanganate, so many times (the weight of the stone The ratio is 1:3), turn off the door for about 10 minutes,
It can be discharged, shake off the pumice, put the clothes in the aqueous solution of baking soda, stop the oxidation reaction of potassium permanganate, and then wash the manganese dioxide attached to the fabric with hot oxalic acid.
(10) Preparation of potassium permanganate pumice;
100-200 g potassium permanganate, 100-200 g 75% phosphoric acid, dissolved in 100 liters of water. Soak the dry pumice in the grinding pot in potassium permanganate solution, soak it, remove it, dry it, use it. The pumice can be recycled and reused.
(11) The color of the enzyme wash denim is bright, the surface finish is good, and the hand feel is very soft, but the whitening and decolorization effects are limited. It is required that the corners are white and the color is lighter. It can be combined with stone grinding and rinsing. The first stone grinding, chlorine bleaching, and finally enzyme washing can still show the advantages of enzyme washing. However, it is necessary to remove the acid hydrazine and redox drug on the fabric before enzyme washing to ensure that the enzyme activity is not affected.
references
1. "Denim Production Technology" Fu Dan, edited by Chen Chuntang
2. <Dyeing and Finishing Technology> 1995.5 p27-29
3.<Tie-dyeing technique> Cui Dongliang Nie Yuehua edited textile industry publishing house
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